At the beginning of this year, I left Belarus with one backpack and a tent, setting off on a long hitchhiking journey through Russia, Kazakhstan, and China. This Eurasian route became a road inward: the steppes of Kazakhstan, the endless Siberian highways, and the шумные Chinese megacities gradually gave way to the mountains of Central Asia. Today, I am in Kyrgyzstan — the land of the Tian Shan, nomadic culture, and ancient Silk Road cities.
My path led me to Osh — the second-largest city in Kyrgyzstan (about 473,500 people in 2025) and one of the oldest cities in Central Asia, believed to be around 3,000 years old. Osh lies where the Ak-Buura River flows out toward the foothills of the Alay Range and historically served as an important trade hub between China, Persia, and the Middle East. Even today, you can feel the rhythm of caravan roads, eastern bazaars, and centuries of history.
The city’s main landmark is Sulaiman-Too — a national historical and archaeological museum complex and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This sacred mountain, over 1,140 meters long and about 560 meters wide, rises 150 meters above the city and consists of five peaks. Within its territory, 101 petroglyph sites have been recorded — depictions of people, animals, and geometric symbols — along with 17 places of worship, many still used today. According to legend, Babur, the founder of the Mughal Empire, once hid in the cave of Chakka-Tamar. The museum inside the mountain holds more than 33,000 artifacts: archaeological finds, ceramics, ethnographic objects, and religious relics reflecting eras from shamanism and animism to Islamic influence. Visiting Sulaiman-Too is not simply sightseeing; it is a deep immersion into the history, archaeology, and spiritual traditions of Kyrgyzstan.
But Osh is not only about ancient heritage — it is also a living city with modern challenges. In July 2024, heavy rains caused severe flooding: the Ak-Buura River overflowed, inundating the Paski Bazaar (Lower Market). Hundreds of торговых containers were destroyed, and lives were lost. After the tragedy, authorities decided to relocate the market to a new municipal site of about seven hectares. These events showed how fragile mountain-region infrastructure can be — and how resilient the people remain in the face of natural disasters.
Today, the Ak-Buura riverfront is also a popular recreational area in Osh, with attractions, cafés, and traditional cuisine. In the evening, when the heat subsides, families gather there, music plays, and the living pulse of the city is unmistakable. For a hitchhiking traveler, it is a chance to see real contemporary Kyrgyzstan — not a tourist postcard, but everyday life as it is.
Traveling through Kyrgyzstan became one of the warmest chapters of my Central Asian route. Among ancient mountains, bustling markets, and open-hearted people, I found not only new stories, but a sense of home. If you are seeking more than beautiful landscapes — if you want a deep cultural experience, spiritual places of power, and the authentic atmosphere of Central Asia — Osh and Sulaiman-Too will be a true discovery.